Batteries

 This first “battery" was used in simple operations to electroplate objects with a thin layer of metal, much like the process used now to plate inexpensive gold and silver jewelry. The actual first "battery" was found in Khujut Rabu just outside Baghdad and is composed of a clay jar with a stopper made of asphalt. 

 Sticking through the asphalt is an iron rod surrounded by a copper cylinder. When filled with vinegar - or any other electrolytic solution - the jar produces about 1.1 volts.

 Batteries were re-discovered much later by a man named Alessandro Volta after which the unit of electrical potential was named, “the volt”.

 

What is a Battery?

 

 A battery is an electrical storage device. Batteries do not make electricity, they store it, just as a water tank stores water for future use. 

  In many ways batteries can be best described as "buckets of electricity", they may be emptied and refilled and they have a measurable capacity. The capacity of batteries is usually expressed in Amp Hours. In a typical electrical system the generator/alternator/inverter/charger is capable of both emptying and refilling the batteries.

 As chemicals in the battery change, electrical energy is stored - or released. In rechargeable batteries this process can be repeated many times. Batteries are not 100% efficient - some energy is lost as heat and chemical reactions when charging and discharging.

 There are several factors which affect the operation of the battery concerning its ability to deliver capacity and life expectancy. Many chemical reactions are affected by temperature, and this is true of the reaction that occurs in batteries. 

 The chemical reaction of a lead-acid battery slows down by the lowering of temperature which results in a loss of capacity. A battery will deliver 100% of capacity at 77ºF; at 20°F the battery only can deliver 74% capacity.

 Excessive heat will contribute greatly to reducing battery life by corroding the positive grids and by excessive gassing which loosens active material pasted onto the positive grid. Overcharging is the most common contribution to excessive temperatures and gassing in a battery.

 Consistent undercharging of a battery will gradually run down the cells and result in one or more cells becoming completely discharged before the others, and may become reversed. Capacity and life expectancy are greatly reduced by undercharging. Good battery maintenance is necessary to protect life expectancy and capacity of your expensive battery.

 Practically all batteries used in PV are Lead-Acid type batteries. Even after over a century of use, they still offer the best price to power ratio. A few systems use NiCad, but we do not recommend them - except in cases where extremely cold temperatures (-50 F or less) are common. They are expensive to buy, and even more  expensive to dispose of due the hazardous nature of Cadmium.

 All lead-acid batteries have a nominal output of 2 volts per cell. Actual cell voltage varies from about 1.7 volts at low charge to 2.4 volts at full charge. 12 volt lead-acid batteries are made of 6 separate cells in one case. 6 volt batteries are made of 3 cells in one case. Industrial 2 volt single-cell batteries are also used in a series for larger applications.

Connections series/parallel

 Series connections are where the positive terminal of one battery is connected to the negative terminal of another, resulting in increased voltage.

 Parallel connections (positive to positive and negative to negative) increases (amps) amp-hour capacity, but does not affect voltage.

 

 

Major Battery Types

 Batteries are divided in two ways, by application (what they are used for) and construction (how they are built). The major applications are automotive, deep-cycle, marine and industrial.

 

 

 Starter Batteries sometimes called "SLI"-  for starting, lighting, ignition) -  are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. 

 

 The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).

 Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. 

 The popular golf cart battery is generally a "semi" deep cycle - better than any starting battery, better than most marine, but not as good as a true deep cycle solid Lead plate, such the L-16 or industrial type. However, because the golf cart batteries are so common, they are usually quite economical for small to medium systems.

 

 Marine batteries are usually fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few are true deep cycle. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%.

 

 Industrial Batteries

The custom made, long life batteries for home power users.

 

          

 

You can tell if its for real if its BIG, BLACK very heavy -  and costs twice as much.

 

Global Yuasa Tubular Plate Industrial Flooded Batteries

 You really can't make a better choice than these batteries, we use them here at TRUEWEST and they never miss a beat. We're not saying that these are the best batteries in the world, there are certainly equals but, there are none better.

 Global Yuasa tubular plate industrial batteries use a premium method of construction that gives them better cycle life, better voltage characteristics on discharge, better performance in very cold conditions, lower self discharge, and longer life in many solar applications than flat plate batteries. 

 They feature fiberglass wrapped, tubular positive plates that also prevent material shedding, adding life and eliminating failure from sediment buildup at the cell bottoms.

 Each cell has a clear, easy-fill vent cap with a built in electrolyte level indicator. When the orange float disappears, the cell needs water, so you never have to open the caps to check electrolyte level. Cells are shipped in non-conductive black painted wood boxes with handles that hold two cells each. Made in Korea in one of the cleanest battery factories worldwide ( ISO 9002).  

7 year warranty: 1 year full warranty; 6 years pro-rated. Free Freight*.  

 

 

As the old saying goes "Sch..(IT) HAPPENS" 

 

 

picture: - click /enlarge

 

Well sometimes you're lucky having the right stuff...

State of a Global Yuasa Battery bank after a house fire. On the far right corner you can see - if you enlarge the photo - the still intact tubular construction - only featured in Global Yuasa's 2V cells.
They did not explode  - they did not spill. 

- See now why we like them..  

( !! The fire was caused by the diesel generator)

   

HUP Solar One

Those batteries are also well known by industrial users and are equal to the Global Yuasa only in a different approach of the internal design (thick Plate design).

 

 This photo shows a 24 volt SO-6-85-17/24 HUP Solar-One. Notice how one of the 12 cells has been removed from the epoxy coated steel container.

 The cell lifting strap shown is provided with the battery along with an owners manual, a 10 year maintenance logbook and a temperature compensated hydrometer.                                                 

n     Free Freight*

n     10 year warranty

n     5 years free replacement

n     ISO 9000 Certified manufacture

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

                                                                                                                                                                                        

Surrette Renewable Energy Batteries

 The Surrette is a plate battery with vertical and horizontal main members for more strength. The KS Series features high capacity 2V cells. A box is needed to support the taller cells.

n     Over sized terminals

n     Seven year warranty

n     3 years free replacement

n     5 years prorated

n     Made in Canada

n     Free Freight*  

 

 

TRUCK FREIGHT ON BATTERIES

Does *FREE FREIGHT mean the batteries will be delivered to my door?

 Not necessarily. Free shipping means the batteries will be shipped from the factory to the nearest business with a forklift (building supply, hardware store, rental equipment company, etc.), or compatible truck terminal. 

 In order to efficiently ship your batteries the trucking company, used, needs to know what to expect on the receiving end. Most residences are not capable of handling a 40' semi and most don't have the forklift capability to quickly unload.

 

 Used batteries - There are many people who report getting "great deals" on old phone company batteries, or standby UPS batteries. There are risks associated as with any purchase of used gear. If you are able to do proper load testing on a bank of batteries you are purchasing, it will tell you exactly what condition they are in. 

Relying simply on their age or the reported usage will not tell you the condition they are really in. 

 Be cautious! You could end up with 2000 lbs of batteries that are no good and then you must often pay to have them disposed of properly.

 It is important to note here that ALL of the batteries commonly used in deep cycle applications are Lead-Acid. This includes the standard flooded (wet) batteries, gelled, AGM and industrial 2 volt cells. They all use the same chemistry, although the actual construction of the plates etc. can vary considerably.

If you want to know more about a certain battery type, or need specs on it, ask us.

 

Lifespan of Batteries

 The lifespan of a battery will vary considerably with how it is used, how it is maintained and charged, temperature, and other factors. In extreme cases, it can vary to extremes - we have seen some killed in less than a year by severe overcharging, and we also have seen large set’s of surplus telephone batteries that are now over 25 years old. 

 We have seen gelled cells destroyed in one day when overcharged with a large automotive charger. We have seen golf cart batteries destroyed without ever being used in less than a year because they were left sitting in a hot garage without being charged. 

 Even the so-called "dry charged" (where you add acid when you need them) have a shelf life of at most 18 months, as they are not totally dry (actually, a few are, but hard to find, the vast majority are shipped with damp plates).

 

These are some general (minimum - maximum) typical expectations 
for batteries if used in deep cycle service:

-  Starting: 3-36 months
-  Marine: 1-6 years
-  Golf cart: 2-6 years

-  AGM deep cycle: 5-7 years
-  Gelled deep cycle: 4-9 years
-  Deep cycle (L-16 type etc): 4-8 years
 

-  Industrial deep cycle: (Global Yusa, Surrette, Rolls, HUP) 10-20+ years
-  Telephone GNB: 1-20 years

 

Gel Cells:

Gelled batteries, contain acid that has been "gelled" by the addition of Silica Gel, turning the acid into a solid mass that looks like gooey Jell-O. The advantage of these batteries is that there is no gassing, and that it is impossible to spill acid even if they are broken. 

 Great for applications where you have to store your batteries inside living quarters like in boats or Rv’s. However, there are several disadvantages. One is that they must be charged at a slower rate to prevent damaging the cells. 

 They cannot be fast charged on a conventional automotive charger or they may be permanently damaged. This is not usually a problem with solar electric systems, but if an auxiliary generator or inverter bulk charger is used, current must be limited to the manufacturers specifications. Most better inverters commonly used in solar electric systems can be set to limit charging current to the batteries.

 

 
Temperature & Batteries

 Battery capacity (how many amp-hours it can hold) is reduced as temperature goes down, and increased as temperature goes up. This is why your car battery dies on a cold winter morning, even though it worked fine the previous afternoon. 

 If your batteries spend part of the year shivering in the cold, the reduced capacity has to be taken into account when sizing the system batteries. The standard rating for batteries is always at room temperature.

 Battery charging voltage also changes with temperature.. This is why you should have temperature compensation on your charger or charge control if your batteries are outside and/or subject to wide temperature variations. 

 Some charge controls have temperature compensation built in and this works fine if the controller is subject to the same temperatures as the batteries. However, if your batteries are outside, and the controller is inside, it does not work that well.

 One last note on temperatures - in some places that have extremely cold or hot conditions, batteries may be sold locally that are NOT standard electrolyte (acid) strengths. The electrolyte may be stronger (for cold) or weaker (for very hot) climates. In such cases, the specific gravity and the voltages may vary from what we show.

Battery Voltages

 All Lead-Acid batteries supply about 2.14 volts per cell (12.6 to 12.8 for a 12 volt battery) when fully charged. Batteries that are stored for long periods will eventually lose all their charge. This "leakage" or self discharge varies considerably with battery type, age, & temperature. It can range from about 1% to 15% per month. Generally, new AGM batteries have the lowest, and old industrial (Lead-Antimony plates) are the highest. 

 In systems that are continually connected to some type charging source, whether it is solar, wind, or an AC powered charger this is seldom a problem. However, one of the biggest killers of batteries is sitting stored in a partly discharged state for a few months. A "float" charge should be maintained on the batteries even if they are not used (or, especially if they are not used).

 

State of Charge

Here are no-load typical voltages vs state of charge

 It is important to realize that voltage measurements are only approximate. The best determination is to measure the specific gravity, but in many batteries this is difficult or impossible. Note the large voltage drop in the last 10%.

 

 The fairy tale: The myth about not storing batteries on concrete floors is just that - a myth. This old story has been around for 100 years, and originated back when battery cases were made up of wood and asphalt. The acid would leak from them, and form a slow-discharging circuit through the now acid-soaked and conductive floor.

Battery Charging

Battery charging takes place in 3 basic stages: Bulk, Absorption, and Float.

 Bulk Charge - The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batteries at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is no "correct" voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current that the battery and/or wiring can take.

 Absorption Charge: The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts.

 Float Charge: The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging.

 

Chargers:

 

 Most garage and consumer (automotive) type battery chargers are bulk charge only, and have little (if any) voltage regulation. They are fine for a quick boost to low batteries, but not to leave on for long periods. 

 

 Among the regulated chargers, there are the voltage regulated ones, such as Iota Engineering and Todd, which keep a constant regulated voltage on the batteries. If these are set to the correct voltages for your batteries, they will keep the batteries charged without damage. These are sometimes called "taper charge". What taper charge really means is that as the battery gets charged up, the voltage goes up, so the amps out of the charger goes down. They charge OK, but a charger rated at 20 amps may only be supplying 5 amps when the batteries are 80% charged. 

 

 To get around this, Statpower and others have come out with "smart", or multi-stage chargers. These use a variable voltage to keep the charging amps much more constant for faster charging.

See  more at charge controllers!

 

  Battery Wiring

 

Battery Aging

 As batteries age, their maintenance requirements change. This means longer charging time and/or higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of the charge). Usually older batteries need to be watered more often. And, their capacity decreases.

Facts

 Batteries should be watered after charging unless the plates are exposed, then add just enough water to cover the plates. After a full charge, the water level should be even in all cells and usually 1/4" to 1/2" below the bottom of the fill well in the cell (depends on battery size and type).

 In situations where multiple batteries are connected in series, parallel or series/parallel, replacement batteries should be the same size, type and manufacturer (if possible). Age and usage level should be the same as the companion batteries. 

 Do not put a new battery in a pack which is more than 3 months old or has more than 75 cycles. Either replace with all new or use a good used battery. For long life batteries, such as the  Global Yusa, Surrette and Crown, you can have up to a one year age difference.

 The vent caps on flooded batteries should remain on the battery while charging. This prevents a lot of the water loss and splashing that may occur when they are bubbling.

 When you first buy a new set of flooded (wet) batteries, you should fully charge and equalize them, and then take a hydrometer reading for future reference. Since not all batteries have exactly the same acid strength, this will give you a baseline for future readings.

 Lead-Acid batteries do NOT have a memory, and the rumor that they should be fully discharged to avoid this "memory" is totally false and will lead to early battery failure.  

 Inactivity can be extremely harmful to a battery. It is a VERY poor idea to buy new batteries and "save" them for later. Either buy them when you need them, or keep them on a continual trickle charge.  The best thing -  buy them, use them.

 

Shipping and Freight

 

 

 

 

 

  

 The best rate for truck freight shipping is for you to pick it up at a local freight terminal.

The second best rate is a commercial business drop point. 

 The most expensive rate is a residential delivery, if it is at all possible. Trucks have 40 foot trailers and must be able to drive to your house.  A residential delivery is usually $80 to $130 more than a commercial business delivery.

 A lift gate, is not always available, (which drops the goods off at ground level), is usually an additional $100 to $140 in extra fees at a residential delivery – if not provided on spot.

 Note:  Please do not sign for anything until you have inspected your product. You have spent good money on it, and it was shipped in good condition. If you don't inspect it, and open the unit at home and find “hidden damage”, there is absolutely no recourse for a truck freight claim. 

 All claims for damage MUST be made at the time of receipt of the unit.  Note any damage on the bill of lading before signing off.  It is a relatively painless process to get a another new unit or even replacement parts if you do so.  

 Freight damage is very rare, but proper documentation and reporting of any damage will really expedite the claims process.