SOLAR – today's energy solution     

 

 Solar power is one of the simplest forms of renewable home power. Photovoltaic (PV) panels have no moving parts, and need no complicated control mechanisms. Some are small and used for calculators wrist watches or radios. Other systems are larger to power, businesses , homes - and some are so large they make telecommunication lines and whole factories independent. 

 

Solar panels are the closest thing to a "plug and play" independent power source you'll ever find.

 

 A solar cell converts light to electricity. The cell is made of silicon, one of the most abundant elements on earth. Computer chips are made of this very same material.

 Contact us with any questions you might have about solar power systems. We're happy to help you build a system that works for your power needs.

 

 

Solar Electric Modules (PV or photovoltaic panels)

 

Some basics: What do I need to know if I decide to install my own power plant?

 

 Orientation of a solar array is best at true south. True south is slightly different than a magnetic reference or compass south. The more an array is situated off of true south the less the total insulation value. A quick way to determine solar south is to divide the span of time between sunrise and sunset in half. The position of the sun at the resulting time would be true solar south.

 Because of these factors the most productive hours of sunlight from are 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m and around solar noon (solar south). This is different than 12:00 noon. Before and after these times power is being produced, but at lower levels. When we size solar panels for a solar power system, we take this equivalent to full sun hours.

 In most locations in Canada winter produces the least sunlight because of shorter days and increased cloud cover, as well as the sun's lower position in the sky. Usually, by sizing a system you will work with a yearly average, a June - July average when insulation is highest, and a December - January average when insulation is lowest.

 Many solar sites are quite uncomplicated in terms of shading and aspect. You may already have a good idea of where the sun appears in the morning and disappears in the evening, as well as how low it swings in the winter sky. If your site is partially shaded, it may be necessary to determine exactly where the best placement of solar panels will be. If you need a more sophisticated site analysis, please contact us.

 

Nominal DC System Voltage

 Since solar panels charge your battery and these are both typically low voltage DC items, it's best to decide up-front what your nominal DC voltage will be. The decision of which DC voltage to use is often dictated by the distance between the various components. 

 For example, with solar panels wired at 12 volts charging a 12 volt battery it is difficult to "push" the 12 volts very far, so if the solar array is going to be more than 75 -100 feet from the batteries it would be advisable to have 24 volt nominal charging since 24 volts will push farther than 12 volts over the same wire size. 

 Rather than increase the wire size to the thickness of your thumb as in a AWG#0000 (4 ought) cable to carry the 12 volts efficiently, it's usually advisable to use 24 or 48 volts and keep the wire sizes between components much smaller. For further reference contact us.

 

                   

 

What can I power with solar?

 

 Solar is a great choice for everything you can think of. From ventilating greenhouses, sun-rooms and attics – over electric fencing, security lightning, water pumping or powering cottages, RV’s, boats or your entire house or business – you name it.

 Remote home applications continues to be a strong market segment in the US, North America in general and around the world.

 In Canada and North America, the largest growing subcategory in this segment is power for middle-class homes and vacation cabins. Within this sub category, typical systems include:
· minimum electricity for basic lighting and appliances
· full power systems, generally including generator-set back up
including a growing number of installations within range of potential utility grid connection.

Home power System

Q. What system type do I need?
A. Depending on you needs you can choose a stand-alone system, grid-connected system or the grid-connected system with backup capability.


n
A stand-alone photovoltaic system
is entirely self-contained and normally includes batteries and a generator. This system is ideal for the person who lives more than an eighth of a mile from the power pole.

n A grid-connected system (also know as net metering) is directly connected with the utility grid and allows the power produced by solar system to offset the amount of power purchased from the utility company.

n
A grid-connected system with battery and /or generator backup insures uninterrupted power if the weather is not cooperating or there is a utility power outage.

Q. How long will a solar panel last?
A.
manufacturers warranty their solar panels for 20-25 years.

Q. How much does a system cost?
A. There are too many variables to give a simple answer. System type, size and cost are directly related to the number of appliances used and the length of time they are used. The most cost-effective first step is to make an energy assessment of your appliances and replace them with newer energy-efficient ones. The more energy you conserve, the less expensive your system will be.

 

 Many folks whose power comes from utility lines contact us hoping that a solar power system will get them through utility outages. Solar electric systems are not practical for powering a utility connected home during outages because the average house is simply not designed with anywhere near the energy efficiency required to be a practical solar electric home. The solar modules themselves can be costly, and the weather that knocks out utility lines usually is not full of sunshine

  We not directly address the issues of backup for utility outages, since our dedicated mission is solar electric power for remote homes not connected to any utility power at all.

  We do  supply high quality, durable long life generators as well as inverter/battery systems that are excellent standby power, because this equipment works very well in both applications. A licensed commercial electrician in your area is the best source for the required transfer switch and for code-approved planning and installation of a utility-back system for your grid connected home. 

 

Two cents worth of..

 The mistake is when they look into an alternative energy system, and try to compare it to getting utility power. They amortize the cost of a system, i.e., how long before the cost would equal what you would have paid for utility power. 

 We think that approach is wrong. Does $20 - 50,000 seem like a lot to spend on an energy system? People spend that to buy a car or truck..

 And we will be glad to calculate a payback for anyone who brings us a similar calculation from their local car dealer who sold them their last new vehicle. We work, save and invest so that we can afford the things we want. If you want a solar system, you can probably afford one..


 ..continuing questions & answers

 

Q. Can I start small and add on later?
A. Yes. If you start with a some good basic compone
nts (inverter, batteries) it is easy to add to your system later. The eventual size of your system will be determined by the size and type of the inverter. Your days of autonomy (Days without sun) is determined by your battery bank With the help of a system designer you can plan your purchases to reach your ultimate goal.


Q. Can I sell power back to the utility grid?
A. If your Utility company has a program for it. Yes! It is called Net Metering. A special meter is installed by the utility company to keep track of the power generated by the PV system as well as the power used by the home. Periodically, those amounts will be "netted" out and the homeowners will pay the utility company only for the net amount of power they used during that period. This system can be set up with or without backup capabilities. With batteries and an upgraded inverter, your home can have power even when the utility is down.

Q. Do I have to have the solar panels on my roof?
A. No. Panels can be mounted on a south-facing roof, but many people choose a ground-mount or a tracker. Trackers can be adjusted manually or automatically.

Q. Inverters? What are they and what do they do?
A. An inverter changes direct current (DC) power that is stored in your batteries into standard alternating current (AC). The true sine wave inverters produces cleaner energy than which is provided by the local utility company.

Q. Will the system work on gray, cloudy or overcast days?
A.
Yes, because photovoltaic energy ( "PV" or "solar power") uses the full spectrum of light, the ultraviolet rays are still charging the system, though at a reduced rate, even when the sunlight isn't visible.

"I have hydro now . . . is solar cheaper?"

 In Canada, NO! Unfortunately at this time we are not a viable alternative to your local hydro utility. (we are getting close though!) Utility generated electricity is cheap, really cheap in North America, this is because society is just beginning to pay some of the real costs of fossil fuel and nuclear generated electricity.

"What if I don't have hydro?"

 If you do not have hydro yet (or are running on a generator) and the utility wants more than $5000.00 to hook you into the grid; we can save you money!! Solar is definitely for you. (Generally...it now costs between 20 and 35 dollars per meter for utility hook ups)

How Does It Make Life Easier?

 Once we have an array of panels in the sun, we regulate the power and store it in large powerful batteries to be used later. Then we pass the direct current electricity through a device called an inverter. The inverter changes the electricity to alternating current (just like the kind that comes out of the wall socket back home) Now you have regular, boring old electricity and can plug anything you have back at home. No adapters, no fuss.


Just plug in and go!

TRUEWEST SOLAR will be glad to personally help you estimate your power and solar equipment needs, discuss your life-style needs and suggest a power system.

 


  

Finding the right size and cost for your power system. 

Since solar modules can be added any time, sizing of solar is not terribly risky. There is some flexibility because the power you receive varies with the sunshine and with seasonal changes in weather. Your own flexibility in energy usage, will meet your system on the way.

System sizing is a combination of art and science.
Before you get lost in the worksheet, sit back and
reflect on this fundamental process.

 

WORKSHEET

 

Determine Your Load

 Determine the total electrical load in watt-hours per day.
The worksheet which you can download will allow you to list every appliance, how much wattage it draws, how many hours per day it runs, and how many days per week. This gives us a daily average for the week, as some appliances, like a washing machine, may only be used occasionally. 

 The appliance list shows general wattage of single items used in a household. We also can start with actual numbers from your utility bill, and look at what reductions can be made by changing lights, appliances, etc.

 It should be noted that electrical heating applications, namely space and water heating, electric ranges and clothes dryers, due to their high electrical consumption, are not appropriate loads. More appropriate energy sources should be used.

 Your load will come out in kWh/day/week or months. Whatever you take out during the day/week/ month - your system must be able to put back in (1KW stands for 1,000watts remember).


Before you start:

 

 Conserve. Trim your wattage to the bone! Don’t use incandescent light bulbs or older standard refrigerators. If you’re intimidated by this whole process, don’t feel like the Lone Ranger. We are here to help you through the tough parts. 

 We do need you come up with an estimate of Total Household Watt-Hours per Day, which the attached worksheet will help you do. We can pick up the design process from there.

Y ou are in the best position to make lifestyle decisions: how late do you stay up at night, are you running a home business, is the house empty five days a week, does your pet iguana absolutely require his rock heater 24 hours a day? Questions we can’t answer for you. So figure out your watt-hours - and let us know what we’re shooting for.

So follow the steps First: Determine Your Loads - Use the worksheet attached.

Download Worksheet

 So if you ‘ve done this you can contact us – or you can take your systemizing a step further (It’s money you're saving) and:

1. Size the Inverter
2. Size your generating tools like Solar panels / Wind generators / Hydro turbines
3. Size the Battery Bank
4. Determine System Cost
5. Pick Yourself Off the Floor
6. Redefine Your Loads - Repeat! 


Helping with this


 Size the Inverter

A stand alone inverter must be able to power all of the loads that might run at the same time, including any starting surges for pumps and other large motors. When looking at inverter specifications, play close attention to the time scale for the surge capabilities. It is often cost effective to oversize the inverter, as incremental costs for similar inverters with larger power capacity are relatively small. The inverter is sized in watts or kilowatts, with a typical range of 500 to 5500 watts.

 Size your generating Tools
Your solar array is sized by dividing the load by the available sunshine. It is realistic for most systems to include a determining factor, as the solar panels won't normally be operating at their peak power point. Modern small wind generators are designed to work as a stand-alone, - or in wind/solar hybrids systems. 

 For most sites a hybrid system using a little of each power source is less expensive and more reliable year-round. So if you are living in an area with seasonally high winds, and this windy season happens to be winter, when PV power energy is limited and any boost is welcome, then a modest wind turbine might be just what you want for your system

 Size the Battery Bank This is probably the most important part of a systems design. Typical advise is to size for 3 to 5 days of autonomy - that is days without sunshine (or wind...), using 50 to 80 percent of the battery's capacity. (This is a big range!) Too big a battery, besides being prohibitively expensive, will seldom get fully recharged or charged at a sufficient rate to keep sulfation in check. Too small a battery will by cycled excessively, again leading to early death.

 Determine System Cost Add it all up. It helps to sit down while doing this (see next step).  Remember all the little parts too, including mounting racks for the panels, wiring and conduit, battery interconnects, metering, fuses, lightning protection, labor... Most systems come out to roughly CDN $15/watt, plus the installation.

 Pick Yourself Off the Floor
See above. Were you sitting down?!?

 Redefine Your Loads and Repeat!
Now you know why we keep harping about energy efficiency! The good news is that with careful planning and appliance choices, households can significantly reduce their energy consumption and keep system costs reasonable


For further references


 2% Voltage Drop Chart For 12 volt Systems

Maximum distance in feet of various gauge two conductor copper wire from power source to load for 2% voltage drop in a 12 volt system. Do not exceed the 2% drop for wire between PV modules and batteries. A 4 to 5% loss is acceptable between batteries and lighting circuits in most cases, however the cost of the next larger wire size is usually insignificant and increases efficiency.

2% Voltage Drop Chart For 12 volt Systems
Maximum distance in feet of various gauge two conductor copper wire from power source to load for 2% voltage drop in a 12 volt system. Do not exceed the 2% drop for wire between PV modules and batteries. A 4 to 5% loss is acceptable between batteries and lighting circuits in most cases, however the cost of the next larger wire size is usually insignificant and increases efficiency.
For calculating distances for 24 volt systems, multiply by factor 2.
For calculating distances for 48 volt systems multiply by factor 4.

Amps

#14

#12

#10

#8

#6

#4

#2

#1/0

#2/0

#4/0

1

45

70

115

180

290

456

720

.

.

.

2

22.5

35

57.5

90

145

228

360

580

720

1060

4

10

17.5

27.5

45

72.5

114

180

290

360

580

6

7.5

12

17.5

30

47.5

75

120

193

243

380

8

5.5

8.5

11.5

22.5

35.5

57

90

145

180

290

10

4.5

7

11.5

18

28.5

45.5

72.5

115

145

230

15

3

4.5

7

12

19

30

48

76.5

96

150

20

2

3.5

5.5

9

14.5

22.5

36

57.5

72.5

116

25

1.8

2.8

4.5

7

11.5

18

29

46

58

92

30

1.5

2.4

3.5

6

9.5

15

24

38.5

48.5

77

40

.

.

2.8

4.5

7

11.5

18

29

36

56

50

.

.

2.3

3.6

5.5

9

14.5

23

29

46

100

.

.

.

.

2.9

4.6

7.2

11.5

14.5

23

150

.

.

.

.

.

.

4.8

7.7

9.7

15

200

.

.

.

.

.

.

3.6