SOLAR – today's
energy solution

Solar power is one of the simplest forms of renewable home power. Photovoltaic (PV) panels have no moving parts, and need no complicated control mechanisms. Some are small and used for calculators wrist watches or radios. Other systems are larger to power, businesses , homes - and some are so large they make telecommunication lines and whole factories independent.
Solar panels are the closest thing to a "plug and play" independent power source you'll ever find.
A solar cell converts light to electricity. The cell is made of silicon, one of the most abundant elements on earth. Computer chips are made of this very same material.
Contact us with any questions you might have about solar power systems. We're happy to help you build a system that works for your power needs.
Solar Electric Modules (PV or photovoltaic panels)
Some basics: What do I need to know if I decide to install my own power plant?
Orientation of a solar array is best at true south. True south is slightly different than a magnetic reference or compass south. The more an array is situated off of true south the less the total insulation value. A quick way to determine solar south is to divide the span of time between sunrise and sunset in half. The position of the sun at the resulting time would be true solar south.
Because of these factors the most productive hours of sunlight from are 9:00
a.m. to 3:00 p.m and around solar noon (solar south). This is different than 12:00
noon. Before and after these times power is being produced, but at lower
levels. When we size solar panels for a solar power system, we take this equivalent
to full sun hours.
In most locations in Canada winter produces the least sunlight because of
shorter days and increased cloud cover, as well as the sun's lower position in
the sky. Usually, by sizing a system you will work with a yearly average, a June
- July average when insulation is highest, and a December - January average when
insulation is lowest. Many solar sites are quite uncomplicated in terms of shading and aspect. You
may already have a good idea of where the sun appears in the morning and
disappears in the evening, as well as how low it swings in the winter sky. If
your site is partially shaded, it may be necessary to determine exactly where
the best placement of solar panels will be. If you need a more sophisticated
site analysis, please contact us. Nominal DC System Voltage
Since solar panels charge your battery and these are both typically low voltage DC items, it's best to decide up-front what your nominal DC voltage will be. The decision of which DC voltage to use is often dictated by the distance between the various components.
For example, with solar panels wired at 12 volts charging a 12 volt battery it is difficult to "push" the 12 volts very far, so if the solar array is going to be more than 75 -100 feet from the batteries it would be advisable to have 24 volt nominal charging since 24 volts will push farther than 12 volts over the same wire size.
Rather than increase the wire size to the thickness of your thumb as in a AWG#0000 (4 ought) cable to carry the 12 volts efficiently, it's usually advisable to use 24 or 48 volts and keep the wire sizes between components much smaller. For further reference contact us.
What can I power with solar?
Solar is a great choice for everything you can think of. From ventilating greenhouses, sun-rooms and attics – over electric fencing, security lightning, water pumping or powering cottages, RV’s, boats or your entire house or business – you name it.
Remote home applications continues to be a strong market segment in the US,
North America in general and around the world.
In Canada and North America, the largest growing subcategory in this segment is
power for middle-class homes and vacation cabins. Within this sub
category, typical systems include:
· minimum electricity for basic lighting and appliances
· full power systems, generally including generator-set back up
including a growing number of installations within range of potential utility
grid connection.

Home power System
Q. What system type do I need?
n A grid-connected system (also know as net metering) is directly connected
with the utility grid and allows the power produced by solar system to offset
the amount of power purchased from the utility company.
n A grid-connected system with battery and /or generator backup insures
uninterrupted power if the weather is not cooperating or there is a utility
power outage.
Q. How long will a solar panel last?
A. manufacturers warranty their solar panels for 20-25 years.
Q. How much does a system cost?
A. There are too many variables to give a simple answer. System type,
size and cost are directly related to the number of appliances used and the
length of time they are used. The most cost-effective first step is to make an
energy assessment of your appliances and replace them with newer
energy-efficient ones. The more energy you conserve, the less expensive
your system will be.
Many folks whose power
comes from utility lines contact us hoping that a solar power system will get
them through utility outages. Solar electric systems are not practical for
powering a utility connected home during outages because the average house is
simply not designed with anywhere near the energy efficiency required to be a
practical solar electric home. The solar modules themselves can be costly,
and the weather that knocks out utility lines usually is not full of sunshine
Two cents worth of..
The mistake is when they look into an alternative energy system, and try to compare it to getting utility power. They amortize the cost of a system, i.e., how long before the cost would equal what you would have paid for utility power.
We think
that approach is wrong. Does $20 - 50,000 seem like a lot to spend on an energy
system? People spend that to buy a car or truck..
And we will be glad to calculate a payback for anyone who brings us a similar calculation from their local car dealer who sold them their last new vehicle. We work, save and invest so that we can afford the things we want. If you want a solar system, you can probably afford one..
..continuing
questions & answers
Q. Can I start small
and add on later?
A. Yes. If you start with a some good basic components (inverter,
batteries) it is easy to add to your system later. The eventual size of your
system will be determined by the size and type of the inverter. Your days of autonomy
(Days without sun) is determined by your battery bank With the help of
a system designer you can plan your purchases to reach your ultimate goal.

Q. Can I sell power back to the utility grid?
A. If your Utility company has a program for it. Yes! It is called
Net Metering. A special meter is installed by the utility company to keep track
of the power generated by the PV system as well as the power used by the home.
Periodically, those amounts will be "netted" out and the homeowners
will pay the utility company only for the net amount of power they used during
that period. This system can be set up with or without backup capabilities. With
batteries and an upgraded inverter, your home can have power even when the
utility is down.
Q. Do I have to have the solar panels on my roof?
A. No. Panels can be mounted on a south-facing roof, but many people
choose a ground-mount or a tracker. Trackers can be adjusted manually or
automatically.
Q. Inverters? What are they and what do they do?
A. An inverter changes direct current (DC) power that is stored in your
batteries into standard alternating current (AC). The true sine wave inverters
produces cleaner energy than which is provided by the local utility company.
Q. Will the system work on gray, cloudy or overcast days?
A. Yes, because photovoltaic energy ( "PV" or "solar
power") uses the full spectrum of light, the ultraviolet rays are still
charging the system, though at a reduced rate, even when the sunlight isn't
visible.
In
Canada, NO! Unfortunately
at this time we are not a viable alternative to your local hydro utility. (we
are getting close though!) Utility generated electricity is cheap, really cheap
in North America, this is because society is just beginning to pay some of the
real costs of fossil fuel and nuclear generated electricity.
If
you do not have hydro yet (or are running on a generator) and the utility wants
more than $5000.00 to hook you into the grid; we can save you money!! Solar is
definitely for you. (Generally...it now costs between 20 and 35 dollars per meter
for utility hook ups)
Once
we have an array of panels in the sun, we regulate the power and store it in
large powerful batteries to be used later. Then we pass the direct current
electricity through a device called an inverter. The inverter changes the
electricity to alternating current (just like the kind that comes out of the
wall socket back home) Now you have regular, boring old electricity and can
plug anything you have back at home. No adapters,
no fuss.
Just
plug in and go!
TRUEWEST SOLAR will be glad to personally help you estimate your power and solar equipment needs, discuss your life-style needs and suggest a power system.
Finding the right
size and cost for your power system.
Since solar modules can be added any time, sizing of solar is not terribly risky. There is some flexibility because the power you receive varies with the sunshine and with seasonal changes in weather. Your own flexibility in energy usage, will meet your system on the way.
System sizing is a combination of art and science.
Before you get lost in the worksheet, sit back and
reflect on this fundamental process.
Determine Your Load
Determine the total electrical load in watt-hours per day.
The worksheet which you can download will allow you to list every appliance, how
much wattage it draws, how many hours per day it runs, and how many days per
week. This gives us a daily average for the week, as some appliances, like a
washing machine, may only be used occasionally.
The appliance list shows general wattage of single items used in a household. We also can start with actual numbers from your utility bill, and look at what reductions can be made by changing lights, appliances, etc.
It should be noted that electrical heating applications, namely space and water heating, electric ranges and clothes dryers, due to their high electrical consumption, are not appropriate loads. More appropriate energy sources should be used.
Your load will come out in kWh/day/week or months. Whatever you take out during the day/week/ month - your system must be able to put back in
(1KW stands for 1,000watts remember).
Before you start:

C
onserve. Trim your wattage to the bone! Don’t use incandescent light bulbs or older standard refrigerators. If you’re intimidated by this whole process, don’t feel like the Lone Ranger. We are here to help you through the tough parts.We do need you come up with an estimate of Total Household Watt-Hours per Day, which the attached worksheet will help you do. We can pick up the design process from there.
Y ou are in the best position to make lifestyle decisions: how late do you stay up at night, are you running a home business, is the house empty five days a week, does your pet iguana absolutely require his rock heater 24 hours a day? Questions we can’t answer for you. So figure out your watt-hours - and let us know what we’re shooting for.
So follow the steps First: Determine Your Loads - Use the worksheet attached.
So if you ‘ve done this you can contact us – or you can take your systemizing
a step further (It’s money you're saving) and:
1. Size the Inverter
2. Size your generating tools like Solar panels / Wind generators / Hydro turbines
3. Size the Battery Bank
4. Determine System Cost
5. Pick Yourself Off the Floor
6. Redefine Your Loads - Repeat!
Helping with this
Size the Inverter
Size your generating Tools
Your solar array is sized by dividing the load by the available sunshine. It is
realistic for most systems to include a determining factor, as the solar panels
won't normally be operating at their peak power point. Modern small wind generators
are designed to work as a stand-alone, - or in wind/solar hybrids
systems.
For most sites a hybrid system using a little of each power source is less expensive and more reliable year-round. So if you are living in an area with seasonally high winds, and this windy season happens to be winter, when PV power energy is limited and any boost is welcome, then a modest wind turbine might be just what you want for your system
Size the Battery Bank This is probably the most important part of a systems design. Typical advise is to size for 3 to 5 days of autonomy - that is days without sunshine (or wind...), using 50 to 80 percent of the battery's capacity. (This is a big range!) Too big a battery, besides being prohibitively expensive, will seldom get fully recharged or charged at a sufficient rate to keep sulfation in check. Too small a battery will by cycled excessively, again leading to early death.
Determine System Cost Add it all up. It helps to sit down while doing this (see next step). Remember all the little parts too, including mounting racks for the panels, wiring and conduit, battery interconnects, metering, fuses, lightning protection, labor... Most systems come out to roughly CDN $15/watt, plus the installation.
Pick Yourself Off the Floor
See above. Were you sitting down?!?
Redefine Your Loads and Repeat!
Now you know why we keep harping about energy efficiency! The good news is that
with careful planning and appliance choices, households can significantly
reduce their energy consumption and keep system costs reasonable
For further references
2% Voltage Drop Chart For 12 volt Systems
|
2% Voltage Drop Chart For 12 volt Systems Maximum distance in feet of various gauge two conductor copper wire from power source to load for 2% voltage drop in a 12 volt system. Do not exceed the 2% drop for wire between PV modules and batteries. A 4 to 5% loss is acceptable between batteries and lighting circuits in most cases, however the cost of the next larger wire size is usually insignificant and increases efficiency. For calculating distances for 24 volt systems, multiply by factor 2. For calculating distances for 48 volt systems multiply by factor 4. |
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Amps |
#14 |
#12 |
#10 |
#8 |
#6 |
#4 |
#2 |
#1/0 |
#2/0 |
#4/0 |
|
1 |
45 |
70 |
115 |
180 |
290 |
456 |
720 |
. |
. |
. |
|
2 |
22.5 |
35 |
57.5 |
90 |
145 |
228 |
360 |
580 |
720 |
1060 |
|
4 |
10 |
17.5 |
27.5 |
45 |
72.5 |
114 |
180 |
290 |
360 |
580 |
|
6 |
7.5 |
12 |
17.5 |
30 |
47.5 |
75 |
120 |
193 |
243 |
380 |
|
8 |
5.5 |
8.5 |
11.5 |
22.5 |
35.5 |
57 |
90 |
145 |
180 |
290 |
|
10 |
4.5 |
7 |
11.5 |
18 |
28.5 |
45.5 |
72.5 |
115 |
145 |
230 |
|
15 |
3 |
4.5 |
7 |
12 |
19 |
30 |
48 |
76.5 |
96 |
150 |
|
20 |
2 |
3.5 |
5.5 |
9 |
14.5 |
22.5 |
36 |
57.5 |
72.5 |
116 |
|
25 |
1.8 |
2.8 |
4.5 |
7 |
11.5 |
18 |
29 |
46 |
58 |
92 |
|
30 |
1.5 |
2.4 |
3.5 |
6 |
9.5 |
15 |
24 |
38.5 |
48.5 |
77 |
|
40 |
. |
. |
2.8 |
4.5 |
7 |
11.5 |
18 |
29 |
36 |
56 |
|
50 |
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2.3 |
3.6 |
5.5 |
9 |
14.5 |
23 |
29 |
46 |
|
100 |
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2.9 |
4.6 |
7.2 |
11.5 |
14.5 |
23 |
|
150 |
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4.8 |
7.7 |
9.7 |
15 |
|
200 |
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3.6 |
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